How can we help you?

The outline you see when you first load a roof is a rough draft: it's a starting point, not the final answer. You need to adjust it to match your actual roof before the numbers mean anything.

• Drag the outline points to line up with the roof edges
• Add points on any side that needs more detail
• Double-check your pitch entry: a wrong pitch changes the total square footage significantly

Pitch is not automatic: you enter it yourself using the pitch tool.

• Pick the pitch tool from the toolbar
• Click and drag a line along the slope of the roof on the map
• Type in your pitch as rise:run: like 6:12 or 4:12
• If different parts of your roof have different slopes, draw a separate pitch line for each section

When you trace the roof carefully and enter the correct pitch, MyRoofMap is accurate enough for estimating and material planning.

That said, do not use these numbers to finalize a bid or order materials without confirming on-site first. Satellite imagery can have slight angle distortions, and accuracy depends on how carefully you trace the outline.

No problem. Draw each roof section as a separate outlined area, and add a pitch line for each section with its correct pitch value. The tool will calculate them individually and add them together in your total.

Yes — any roof that's visible from satellite imagery can be measured.

• Commercial: works the same as residential. Larger flat roofs are actually easier to trace
• Flat roofs: use 0:12 pitch (or close to it). The pitch tool still works
• Metal / standing seam: trace the outline same as any roof; the metal type doesn't change the measurement

On purpose. The manual-input approach is core to how MyRoofMap works.

• You're the one tracing the outline and entering the pitch — not an algorithm guessing
• This keeps the tool fast, cheap, and gives you control over what gets measured
• It also keeps the report a planning estimate, not a "certified" measurement

Automated tools take 30 minutes to a few hours and cost $25–65 per report. We're a different category — call it a quick pre-bid tool that you finish on-site.

MyRoofMap uses publicly available satellite photos. We don't control when those photos were taken, and they're typically updated every 1–3 years depending on your area.

An old image doesn't affect your measurement: the roof shape and footprint are usually the same even if materials have changed. You can still trace the outline and enter today's pitch.

Rural areas and some smaller towns have lower-resolution satellite images. We can't control the resolution: it comes from our data providers. We're sorry for the trouble.

• Try zooming in a bit: sometimes a sharper layer loads
• If it's still too blurry to work with, email us at support@myroofmap.com with the address and we'll take a look

This happens sometimes, especially on rural roads or new subdivisions. Easy fix:

• After the map loads, drag the pin to the correct property
• Try adding the full ZIP code to your search (e.g. "1234 Oak St, Tulsa OK 74101")
• For brand-new homes, the address may not be in the system yet: navigate to the location on the map and drop the pin manually

Try these first:

• Use the full address with city, state, and ZIP code
• Try just the house number and street name, no abbreviations
• Search the nearest intersection, then pan the map and drop the pin manually

If none of that works, email us at support@myroofmap.com and we'll get you taken care of.

• Go to myroofmap.com and click Sign In
• Click "Forgot password?"
• Enter your email and check your inbox for a reset link
• The link expires in 30 minutes: use it right away

A couple of things to check first:

• Make sure you're logged into the same email account you used when you saved it
• Search by the property address in your project dashboard
• If the browser closed before the save finished, the project may not have saved

If it's still missing, email us with your account email and the address of the job: we can look it up on our end.

Most download issues are caused by the browser blocking the file. Try these:

• Pop-up blocked? Look for a blocked popup notice in the top of your browser bar and click "Allow"
• Ad blocker? Temporarily turn it off, or try opening in an Incognito/Private window
• Make sure your roof outline is fully closed and you've entered a pitch: an incomplete project won't export
• Try Chrome or Firefox if you're on Safari

MyRoofMap is built for estimates and planning: not final bids. Our Terms of Service are clear: don't use these numbers to finalize pricing or sell roofing services without verifying on-site.

Here's how most contractors use it:

• Pre-bid: Check if a job is worth driving out to
• Customer conversations: Show the homeowner a visual of their roof
• Material ballpark: Start your order, confirm quantities on the roof

You can change the waste percentage in your project settings before exporting.

• Simple gable roof: 10% is standard
• Hip roof or complex valleys: Use 15–20%
• Steep pitch: Add extra: steep cuts waste more material

All of your past reports are saved automatically.

• Log in and go to Account → My Reports
• Reports are listed by date, with the property address
• Click any report to view, download, or re-share

We don't delete old reports unless you ask us to. Even reports from a year ago are still there.

Yes — the PDF is yours to share however you want.

• Download the report from the Generate Report button (or from your history)
• Attach it to an email like any other PDF
• Or use your phone's Share menu if you opened the report on mobile

We don't watermark the PDF or limit who you send it to.

Yes — the PDF you download is a regular file. Email it, text it, print it, anything.

• The PDF is self-contained — they don't need to log in or sign up to view it
• It includes the property address, measurements, and your company info if you've set it up

If they want to make their own measurements, they'll need their own account.

Indefinitely, as long as your account is active.

• Active accounts: reports stay forever
• Closed accounts: reports kept for 90 days, then deleted
• You can manually delete any report from your account at any time

That outline is just a starting point: it's never meant to be perfect. You always need to adjust it.

• Click any point on the outline and drag it to the right spot
• Click on any edge to add a new point for more detail
• If it's totally off, delete it and draw your own outline from scratch using the polygon tool

Try these in order: most slowness issues are fixed by one of these:

• Clear your browser cache: In Chrome: Settings → Privacy → Clear browsing data
• Close other tabs: mapping tools use more memory than regular websites
• Switch to Chrome or Firefox if you're on Safari or an older browser
• Make sure your internet connection is solid: spotty WiFi makes the map stall
• Avoid using on a phone or older tablet: MyRoofMap works best on a desktop or laptop

Here's the basic flow from start to finish:

• Step 1: Type in the property address and confirm the pin is on the right house
• Step 2: Adjust the auto-trace outline so it matches the actual roof edges
• Step 3: Use the pitch tool to draw a line and enter your pitch
• Step 4: Review your square footage and export or save your report

MyRoofMap runs in any web browser, so it will open on a phone: but the tracing tools are much harder to use on a small touchscreen. For best results, use it on a laptop or desktop computer.

If you need to pull up a saved project in the field, the viewing and reporting features work fine on mobile.

When you're drawing the roof outline:

• Click each corner to add a point
• To finish, click near where you started — the outline snaps closed
• The shape fills in green when it's closed correctly

If it's not closing, you may not be clicking close enough to the first point. Zoom in for more precision.

Depends on what you want to remove:

• Single point on an outline: click and drag it to a new spot, or right-click the point to delete it
• An entire roof line (ridge, valley, etc.): click on the line, then press Delete or use the trash icon
• The whole outline: use the Reset button in the toolbar to start over

These are the standard roof line types. We use them to calculate the linear feet of each, which matters for ordering trim, ridge cap, and flashing materials.

• Ridge: the horizontal peak where two slopes meet at the top
• Hip: a sloped edge running from the peak down to the corner of the roof
• Valley: a V-shaped line where two roof planes meet inward
• Rake: the sloped edge of a gable, running from the peak down the side
• Eave: the horizontal bottom edge of the roof, where the gutters typically run
• Flashing: any metal trim around chimneys, walls, or features
• Step flashing: the stepped metal pieces running up where the roof meets a vertical wall (chimneys, dormers)

Yes. Each structure (main house, garage, addition, shed) can be drawn as a separate outline on the same map.

• Finish drawing one structure first
• Click the polygon tool again to start a new one
• Each structure gets its own pitch entry
• Totals are summed in your final report

Useful for a property with multiple roofs, or a job where you're estimating the house and the detached garage together.